Sea Minerals (3oz Mini Candle)

This candle is thoughtfully and delicately hand-poured using a premium paraffin/soy wax blend chosen for its exceptional scent performance, smooth finish, and reliable burn quality. Designed to offer a sustainable scent experience, this Signature 3oz mini candle offers a consistent burn time of 16-22 hours when proper candle care is followed. Check out the “Candle Care & Maintenance” section below to learn how to get the most from your candle!

Additionally, this candle is intentionally formulated to produce a medium-to-strong scent throw that fills your space with comfort without becoming overwhelming. One Signature 3oz mini candle easily produces enough fragrance to fill a bathroom, laundry room, small to medium bedroom, or kitchen. The fragrance oils infused within each candle are known for their clean, high-quality, safe, phthalate-free qualities, ensuring a luxurious and fragrant atmosphere.

Regardless of its qualities, our mission is to spread love, warmth, light, self-care, and comfort throughout your space – one candle at a time.

Top notes of a fragrance are what you smell first, the aromas that give you an initial impression and draw you in. These notes are usually lighter in smell and tend to be the citrusy or soft floral elements. They are the most volatile notes, meaning that they tend to fade more quickly than the others. 

Middle notes, also called the “heart,” provide a balance between the top and base notes. These are usually bright florals, gourmands, fruits, or lighter woods. These notes are usually the most prominent aromas you will smell.  

Base notes are the anchor or root of every scent, giving depth and longevity to the overall fragrance. Typically, these notes will be things like vanilla, spices, musks, woods, or amber. Base notes tend to linger in a room for some time after burning a candle, melting a wax melt, or spritzing a room spray.

Knowing how to treat your candle will dictate how well your candle performs! To ensure the best performance and longest candle lifespan, please follow these care guidelines:

First Burns & Tunneling
During the first few burns, you may notice slight tunneling even when the candle is burned for several hours. This is normal for this wax system. As the candle continues to burn, the melt pool will naturally widen and reach a full, even melt across the container.

Because the candle container is thinner and cylindrical in shape, it is naturally prone to soot collecting on its inner walls when proper candle care is NOT followed!

Burn Time
For optimal performance, only burn your candle for 3–4 hours at a time, or until the melt pool reaches/gets close to reaching the edges of the container. Avoid burning for longer than 4 hours in a single session!

Wick Care
Trim the wick to approximately ¼ inch before each burn. The wick tends to curl by the end of the first few burn cycles and will be too long for the next lighting. Please do not forget to cut the excess wick!

If the flame appears small or goes out before the end of a 4-hour burn cycle, you may have cut the wick too short. Do not trim the wick again. Instead, allow it to get some length by relighting it and letting it “grow.”

Rule of thumb for wick trimming – if the wick is already ¼ an inch (or shorter), and/or the flame is smaller than ½ an inch, skip the next wick trim.

Need a wick cutter? Purchase one here!

General Safety

1. Always burn within sight

2. Keep out of reach of pets and children

3. Place the candle on a heat-safe surface, away from drafts and flammable objects

4. Discontinue use when ¼ inch of wax remains in the container

5. Never, ever, EVER, pour any amount of melted wax down a drain or in the toilet! It will solidify in the pipes and cause major plumbing issues that will be expensive to fix!

Got questions? Check out my FAQs page or submit your question through my Contact page!

If you like to use every ounce of wax or reuse the candle container, please read the important notes and follow the directions.

Important Notes:

1. The wax blend in the Signature 3oz mini candles lacks the properties to create hard wax melts. It will stick to any mold it is poured into, making it very difficult to remove. Do not try to make a wax melt out of the remaining wax at the bottom of the container.

2. Do not reuse the container for food purposes.

To use the remaining wax:

1. Place the container under a wax warmer light or on top of a wax warmer appliance and simply let it melt.

2. You can also try using a double-boiler method on a stove or heating appliance, but it may be difficult because of the size and light weight of the candle tin. Heating the wax using this method usually causes the wax temperature to get too hot, too fast, resulting in muting or altering the fragrance.

3. Another option is heating the wax with a heat gun and pouring the wax directly into a wax warmer. If you choose this option, handle the container with caution. It will be hot to the touch.

Regardless of the heating method used, any wax remaining at the bottom of the container will eventually evaporate after it’s been melted for several hours.

To reuse the container:

1. Place the container under a wax warmer light or on top of a wax warmer appliance and let the wax melt. You can also use a heat gun or double-boiler method to melt the wax quickly, but this may cause the container to become too hot to handle without heat-resistant gloves.

2. Once all the wax has turned into a liquid, soak it up with paper towels, pour it into the trash, or pour it into a non-reusable container that can be thrown away. *Due to this being a small amount of wax, it cools and hardens very quickly. You may have to repeat steps 1 and 2 a few times to ensure all wax has been removed.

3. Once the wick tab and wax are removed, soak a paper towel with rubbing alcohol or warm soapy water. Do not use a regular towel unless you are willing to throw it away. It is helpful if the container remains warm at this step. Wipe out the inside until the walls are smooth. These tins are made of high-quality aluminum and may discolor on the bottom or inside walls.

4. Use a dry paper towel to dry up any soapy water or excess rubbing alcohol. The container is now ready to be reused!

Trouble removing the wick tab or its adhesive? Try soaking it in ¼ inch of rubbing alcohol or a strong adhesive remover like Goo Gone overnight. Use a plastic blunt or flat-edged scraper to push the adhesive off. Using a rounded tool to remove the wick tab or its adhesive will leave visible scratches. If you don’t have a blunt or flat-edged tool, use the adhesive remover, let it sit for 48 hours, and remove with a paper towel. Multiple attempts may be required.

The following terms are used throughout the shop:

1. Scent Throw – Refers to how effectively a candle, wax melt, or reed diffuser emits its fragrance into a space. A throw can be classified as non-existent, faint/subtle, medium/fair, strong, or very strong/overwhelming.

2. Cold Throw – The fragrance a candle emits when it is unlit or as soon as the lid is taken off.

3. Hot Throw – The fragrance a candle emits as the candle burns and fills a space.

4. Tunneling – A term used to describe when a candle’s wax is unable to reach the edges of the container while being burned. If the tunneling does not even itself out after 3-5 burns, the wax-to-flame ratio will become uneven, and the wax will eventually snuff out the flames.

5. Melt Pool – The melted wax that forms around a burning wick. An ideal melt pool is considered a “full melt pool,” which is when the melted wax reaches the container’s edges during a burn cycle.

6. Burn Cycle – The amount of time a candle is spent burning. It is recommended that a candle not burn for longer than 4 hours at a time.

7. Melt Cycle – The amount of time a wax melt is spent melted. It is recommended that a wax melt not be melted for longer than 4 hours at a time.

8. Soot – A fine black or clear airborne carbon residue often caused by long wicks, drafts, long burn cycles (over 4 hours), and excess fragrance oil. Soot also results from sustained flames larger than 1 inch and mushrooming. Soot either comes straight from the flame and looks like a thin line of black smoke, and/or builds up on the inner walls of the candle container, resembling a black dust/powder. Soot looks black in non-natural waxes like paraffin, and is clear in all natural waxes such as 100% soy.

9. Mushrooming – A natural reaction in all candles, mushrooming is a buildup of excess carbon at the end of the wick, causing it to curl or burst into a mushroom shape. This is usually due to the flame consuming more fuel (wax, fragrance, or dye) than it can burn.

10. Over-burning – When a candle burns for longer than 4 hours. This typically results in the candle melting down faster, an increase of soot and mushrooming, muddy/dirty-looking wax, a dirty container, extra-long wicks, and high flames.